Category Archives: South Africa

Hluhluwe Umfolozi Game Reserve

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 Our final stop after leaving Swaziland was a lesser known park back in Zululand in South Africa called Hluhluwe Umfolozi.  To be honest, at this point in the trip I think a good many of us were starting to suffer from “Africa Fatigue”, where things that got us excited on the first few days wouldn’t even get us to turn our heads.  Another zebra?  Yawn…wake me up if you see a leopard making a kill.   Despite that, this park had quite a few things that kept our attention at peak performance for the entire day.

The terrain here was quite unlike any other game park I’d ever been to.  Most parks are in the “veld”…fields of grass, trees, almost always flat.  This park was so much more!  Hills, ridges, streams running down valleys..lots of interest and a good challenge for photography.  There were fewer places for tourists to stay in the park, but if I ever come back with someone “special”, I’ll definitely be staying at the Hill Top lodge..amazing views, beautiful furnishings, and what looked like a very fun bar.

From an animal spotting perspective, two events really stand out in my memory of this park.  First we spent about two hours stalking and following a large herd of elephants, trying to intercept them around the terrain to get us into perfect photo distance.  We eventually succeeded, but unfortunately the light was at the worst mid-day height.  Still, for a fun experience this couldn’t be beat.  Our most impressive encounter happened on our way out of the park…we ran across several rhino’s, two of which were large males fighting over a female.  We watched the battle for about 45 minutes, with the animals getting increasingly more tired and bloody.  Eventually the loser ran off in defeat, and we bugged out with the evening closing time right on our tail.

Northern Kruger Park

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Our second day game driving covered the northern areas of Kruger park.  Conditions were better today, and I felt more confidient with the new lens.   The intital excitement of being back in Africa was starting to fade, which meant that I could concentrate on good shots instead of just trying to take a snapshot of every animal in sight.   The lighting conditions were significantly improved from the previous day, due to our getting up early to be able to head to the Mozambique border before noon.  The wildlife was pretty decent today, and we even technically spotted a lion feasting on a giraffe that had been killed, but unfortunately it was hidden by way too much brush to have any chance of getting a good photo. 

After we finished our morning drive we headed to Mozambique, via the Giriyondo border post inside Kruger itself.  In theory Kruger is just one section of a larger international “Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park”, but unfortunately Mozambique’s section is pretty poor.   As soon as we crossed the border, the road quality dropped a thousand fold, and we didn’t see any further big animals other than the occassional Impala until nearly 10 days later when we returned back into Swaziland. 

Southern Kruger Park

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Driving thru Kruger Game Park in an overland truck is a bit of an exercise in frustration for the photographer.  Due to the rigors of the truck schedule, and the sheer size, it is not really possible to control the time of your visit, nor do you have the flexibility to move around for the best composition.  In addition, you are competing with the other 14 people on the trip for the limited free space where you can even get a clear view.   Still, despite the obstacles, this was a fairly successful day for photography.  Today was the first chance I’d had to use my new Canon 100-400L in real world conditions, and I think that once I learn the limitations of it, I’ll really enjoy the capabilities it offers. 

Kruger is one of the biggest parks in Africa, if not the biggest, and due to the more developed tourist infrastructure in South Africa, it often feels like an “Disneyland Africa”.   It is very well equiped to handle a large number of visitors, and has some very restrictive policies that ensure that the wildlife is not stressed too much by the sheer quantity of people who come for their African holiday.  Only about 13 percent of the park is even visible from a road, and large vehicles like our truck are limited to the paved roads only, futher limiting the range.  Of course in Africa, game spotting is always a matter of luck, but having our range restricted like this felt like we were artificially handicapped with our options.   I think I’d have enjoyed the park more if I’d been in a smaller vehicle with the options to go exploring at my own leisure…maybe next time.