2007 » The Global Guy

Yearly Archives: 2007

Emperor penguins!

October 20, 2007 Posted in Antarctica

In the five years that I’ve been privileged to come to the Antarctic, I’ve never been lucky enough to see an emperor penguin up close in the wild. I may have spotted one standing alone on an ice floe while I was on the NBP several years ago, but it was so far in the distance that even with binoculars, I couldn’t make a positive ID. Today, my luck changed, and I finally got up close and personal with a group of six penguins hanging out near the base.

I’ve been sitting in McMurdo for the past week waiting for the weather to clear up enough that we can get to Pole and open the station. To kill some time, the cargo department organized a trip out to Cape Evans and Shackleton’s historic hut. I’d been out there before, but I figured that any trip off station is better than sitting around watching another movie.

We had been traveling out for about an hour or so, and had just passed the Erebus ice tongue and were about to pass the Razorback islands. It had been a pretty boring drive so far, with no wildlife spotted except for a few Weddell seals off in the distance. I was about to drift off to sleep again when the vehicle we were in lurched to a stop, and we heard the driver on the radio calling out “Penguins! Emperor penguins!” That got everyone awake pretty quickly! We quickly threw on our coats and grabbed our cameras and headed out the door to take a look around. About 150 feet away, and headed straight for us were six Emperors just out for a stroll.

I couldn’t belive our luck…the penguins were obviously curious about us, but as they approached they managed to maintain a dignified appearance. Unlike the clownish adelie penguins, these were stately and aloof. They gave the impression that they didn’t want us to know that they even cared if we were there or not. The whole group stayed together as they approached with no one individual showing any read leadership. Every once in a while, they’d let out a squawk, or wave their flippers, but no matter what, refused to get excited. Eventually they got to within about 20 feet of our group, and hung out for about 10 minutes just watching us watch them. Folks were going crazy with their cameras…I think this was a completely new experience for every one of us.

After about 10 or 15 minutes of hanging out, the penguins started to get bored, and continued on their path across the ice shelf. They were obviously in no hurry to get where ever their destination was, leaving us even more opportunities to get shots of their backsides.

All in all, the entire encounter couldn’t have lasted more than 25 minutes or so, but I think it was one of the highlights of my Antarctic career.

Pawnee Pass

September 23, 2007 Posted in Trail maps

The hike to Pawnee Pass traverses vibrant, varied terrain en route to spectacular views atop the Continental Divide. Two lakes, innumerable streams, abundant wildflowers and extended alpine-tundra travel make this one of the Indian Peak’s most interesting and enjoyable day hike destinations. Get an early start, as you may find yourself tempted to fully explore the Long Lake, Lake Isabelle and Pawnee Pass areas.

The trail begins on a flat, well-groomed path through stately spruce forest. The trail bypasses the Jean Lunning Trail – the first of several easy access points to Long Lake – after just .2 miles. Continue straight towards Lake Isabelle and Pawnee Pass. The damp lake basin and its many tributaries make this first mile especially verdant.

The trail remains flat until reaching a second connection with the Jean Lunning Trail (1.2 miles), beyond which it climbs steadily through a progressively thinning forest to Lake Isabelle (2.1 miles : 10,868′). The Lake Isabelle vicinity is simply stunning, highlighted by terrific views of Navajo (13,409′), Apache (13,441′), and Shoshoni (12,967′) peaks, Isabelle Glacier (12,025′) and several nearby streams that make possible a brilliant wildflower display.

The trail splits at the lake’s east end for Pawnee Pass, beginning a moderately steep climb through the upper-reaches of the subalpine. Aerial views of Lake Isabelle and a network of tumbling tributaries accompany you on this notably more challenging section. Take note of pronounced ecological changes on the rapid transition through and above treeline.

The trail flattens considerably, if only briefly, once above treeline on a broad tundra bench overlooking the Lake Isabelle valley. This welcomed reprieve yields excellent views of several nearby peaks, and an opportunity to closely examine unique tundra ecology while observing the marmot, pika and ptarmigan that subsist on it.

The trail soon begins a steep, methodical climb up a south-facing ridge over lengthy switchbacks. On the return you’ll appreciate looking down at the exaggerated zig-zag route this trail takes up the ridge.

The strenuous climb meets the ridgeline (4.45 miles) and spills into a flat, expansive tundra saddle tucked neatly between Shoshoni (12,967′) and Pawnee (12,943′) peaks. An easy jaunt leads to a large sign identifying Pawnee Pass and the Continental Divide (4.6 miles : 12,541′).

From here well-worn social trails branch off and lead up the respective summits; continuing west for a short time yields sweeping views down the western slope of the Divide, and a glimpse of Pawnee Lake.