Monthly Archives: October 2003

The end of Africa

Vineyards in South Africa

Today we arrived in Cape Town, and marked the official end of our tour. It’s been a good 52 days, but I’m looking forward to getting to Italy, and then back home. My 30th birthday was a few days ago, and it couldn’t have been better. We toured 4 different wineries, and ended up going out to dinner at a Mexican restaurant.

I tried to visit Robben island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for years, but unfortunately the ferries were not traveling due to high seas. I was able to see the museum on the mainland, which was very impressive. That’s the last thing I’ll have time to do here…18 hours in an airplane tomorrow and I’m in Rome!

Namibia

Seal colony at Cape Cross, Namibia.

Today is our last day in Swakopmund, Namibia. It’s a cool little German style town right on the beach. There is a current coming straight from Antarctica, so it’s water about 17 degrees. Too cold for swimming, but great for offshore fishing. 5 of us went out this morning, and spent the day angling for snook. We caught tons of fish, and would have had more, except we had to fight the local seal population for them. The seals would hide underwater, and after we’d hooked the fish before we could pull them in, they would attack the fish while it was still on our lines. We lost about 25% of our catch that way, but it was fun to watch the way they stalked their prey.

While we were there, I also got the chance to go sand boarding and quad biking. Namibia has huge red sand dunes and tour companies are all about selling you the opportunity to play on them. These were so much cheaper than the other stuff we’ve been doing, and a hell of a lot of fun.

On our way out of town we stopped by a seal colony at a town called Cape Cross. You wouldn’t believe the stink that these guys make! I’d seen seals in both Antarctica and Australia, but nothing in these quantities.

Finally we spent an afternoon at Fish River Canyon. This is the grand canyon of Africa, and while it isn’t as big as the real one in Arizona, it’s still pretty impressive. There are only 8 more days on the trip, and if you want to send me well wishes, I turn 30 on the 13th. I’m going to be old!

Fish River Canyon

Etosha National Park

Zebras at a water hole

Etosha is one of the biggest and best parks in Southern Africa. It’s main highlight is a huge salt pan that was formed thousands of years ago when the river feeding this area changed course. Now it’s a dry desolate place that is still home to an astonishing variety of wildlife. One of the most unique features of Etosha are the floodlit watering holes. After the sun sets, animals come to these oasises in the desert for life sustaining water. Human visitors can sit inside a protected area, drink a local beer, and enjoy rare sightings in luxurious comfort. The first night we saw four out of the big five animals in about three hours, including black rhinos and leopards. Amazing!