Monthly Archives: August 2003

Headed out on the road

Masai herding cattle on the road to Arusha

Internet access in Africa is spotty, so my updates will be coming with a lot less frequency. Right now we’re on day five of the tour, and it’s been fantastic! There are 21 of us on this trip, and as I expected, I’m the only American. The rest are a pretty much 50-50 split between Aussies and Kiwis with two Brits thrown in.

About two thirds of the people on the trip are joining up with me, and the rest are continuing on from seeing the mountain gorillas in Uganda. They told us that we were seeing them the cleanest they’d been in two weeks! I talked to most of them at some point about that part of the excursion, and decided that I’d come back next year to do at least that portion myself.

We started off leaving Nairobi for Tanzania and the town of Arusha. Driving along we had our first sightings of the local wildlife and native people. It wasn’t at all unusual to see the local Masai people herding their cattle along the side of the road from one village to another. We spent the first night bush camping, and then reached Arusha the next day.

Kenya

Elephant orphanage

I arrived at the airport in Nairobi sometime around 6pm. It took about 30 minutes to get thru all the formalities of immigration. I was hoping to be able to just buy a $20.00 transit visa since I was only going to be in the country for less than three days, but the immigration official was insistent that I pay the full $50.00 US. Oh well, it’s only money!

I had reservations at the hotel where the tour was going to start from. Getting there was a little interesting. Once I came out of the arrival area I was swamped with people waving "official" badges saying that they had taxi services for cheap. I talked to one person who insisted that he had a good taxi and could take me right to the hotel. I followed him out to his car in the parking lot, and quickly decided no way in hell. He had three or four friends hanging out by it, none of them looking particularly trustworthy. I told him hell no, and headed back inside where I finally found the tourist desk. They called a real taxi for me, and within 10 minutes I was headed to my hotel.

At the hotel there were a few people hanging out at the bar, but after being on an airplane and in airports for most of the past 48 hours, I just wanted to try to catch up on some sleep and maybe get over any lingering jet lag. The next morning I wandered up to breakfast and met some of the people who would be on the tour. Since we had a day to kill we decided to hire a driver and car to see some of the city. Our driver took us around Nairobi showing us both the affluence and the poverty all within just a few blocks of each other. Once he found out that I was American he insisted that we go to see the site of the former US embassy that was destroyed in a terrorist attack in 1998. This was the first public Al-Queda attack against the US, and killed 213 people. Unfortunately for the local people, most of them were Kenyans who just worked near the embassy. I remember the event happening, but like most Americans at the time didn’t really think anything of it. Seeing the ruins, and the memorial to those killed brought the reality of this home.

After a quick lunch we headed off to an animal orphanage sponsored by a trust fund left by a former warden of the Tsavo game park. Here the park takes in young animals whose parents had been killed by poachers or other accidents. It was my first experience with the local wildlife, and playing with the young elephants was quite a treat!

Later that evening we met more people from the trip and headed down to the bar. It was a great night, and I think we were all surprised at the quality of the local beer!

Hong Kong

Hong Kong from Hong Kong hill

Hong Kong seems like a nice city. I had a 12 hour layover here, and luckily they don’t require a visa to go see the city. For about 10 bucks, I got a round trip train ticket from the airport to the city itself. With only a few hours to spend, I decided I’d go up Hong Kong hill and then just wander around for a while. It was raining, so I got to see a lot of downtown while dashing from awning to awning. I finally got to the base of Hong Kong hill and caught the funicular train to the top. They’ve got a little amusement area up there with everything from an IMAX theater to a Ripley’s Believe it or Not museum. I hung out around the top for a while, and then when it became pretty obvious that the day was going to stay rainy, I headed back to the airport.