Monthly Archives: July 2003

Staying with the locals

The ger we stayed in

Our driver Oogi knew a family near an extinct volcano at the edge of a beautiful lake. He asked if we wanted to go visit them, and of course we jumped at the chance! We had no idea what to expect, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. This family had about three gers that they lived in, and as guests we were put in their main living quarters. We felt a little bad about this, but they were extremely insistent (and of course we paid for the privilege). We spent a day just hanging out, playing with their kids, and riding horses all around the area. We hiked up to the extinct volcano, peered in the old crater, and then the head of the family took us to a nearby cave that was one of the strangest things I’d ever seen. The entire floor of the cave was covered in about six inches of water, but underneath the water was solid ice! We never did find out if it ever completely melts, but it wouldn’t surprise me to find out that there was always permanent ice there.

That evening we were fed fresh mutton for dinner. In fact it was so fresh that we got to watch the sheep being slaughtered and prepared. Mongolians don’t like to waste any part of an animal, so they’ve developed a unique way of killing their animals that preserves everything, including every drop of blood. You start by catching the sheep, and then rolling it over on it’s back…then you take your trusty Mongolian army knife and make a slit in the sheep’s chest, just below the rib cage. Next, reach your whole hand in there, feel around for the aorta connecting to the heard, and rip it in two. The sheep will bleed to death internally, only taking about 45 seconds to lose consciousness. We’d thought that our driver might have been a bit of a city boy until we watched how expertly he went about helping the family. The whole family helped, doing everything from skinning the animal, to emptying the intestines out. They cooked most of it for our dinner, and then the rest went into the refrigerator…or as they call it, under the bed in the guest ger!

Canada Day!

Campsite at sunset.

So July 1st is Canada day…I never would have thought about it. Sarah, our trip’s resident Canadian, wouldn’t let us forget and treated us to pancakes for dinner. Why pancakes? I have no idea, but I just figure what do you expect from the same people who brought us Anne Murray and Strange Brew. Our campsite tonight had a resident bird who was very protective about his nesting spot, which just happened to be near the only convenient place to use as a toilet. It’s kinda hard to do your business when you’re being dive-bombed! We’ve also got a nearby cow carcass that’s luckily past the stinking stage, but it makes for some interesting speculation about what happened.

Today was mostly a driving day, but we did get to see a couple of interesting sights. One was the "belly button" of Mongolia. Supposedly this particular ovoo marks the geographic center of the country. My GPS disagreed, but who am I to argue with local tradition. The other thing we saw was supposedly a hundred year old tree. Our guide said that he can remember seeing this as a boy when it was completely green and covered with leaves. Today its just a pale shadow of its former self. In fact, the main attraction seemed to be the colony of squirrels who have taken up residence in the root system.